History Podcasts

Mitsubishi Ki-7

Mitsubishi Ki-7

Mitsubishi Ki-7

The Mitsubishi Ki-7 was the designation given to two K3M training aircraft produced for the Japanese Army. The K3M was a five-seat crew trainer produced for the Japanese Navy. It was a parasol winged single-engined monoplane, with open cockpits for the pilot and gunner and an enclosed cabin for the instructor and two pupils.

The Army expressed an interest in the K3M in 1933, and Mitsubishi produced two prototypes of the Ki-7. The first was powered by a 475hp Mitsubishi Type 92 radial engine, and had a stronger engine mounting and forward fuselage. This aircraft crashed while under development. A second prototype, with a Nakajima Kotobuki radial engine, was also produced but by the time it was ready the Army had lost interest in the design. This second aircraft became the only civil K3M, with the designation MS-1. The MS-1 was given an enlarged tail, which was then used on the K3M3 navy trainer.


Mitsubishi VIN Check

Mitsubishi VIN check is gaining popularity on the used car market. The more people drive a car, the longer is its list of problems. Checking your car's identification number online is a quick way to learn about the issues with ownership, registration, mileage, and accident history.

This Mitsubishi VIN checker works free of charge. The check won't take long: just get access to the car VIN number, insert this number in the system and press "Check". All you have to do after it is wait until the history appears on your screen.

Don't worry about the privacy: we don't disclose personal information of the car owners and won't collect yours. The use of online checking tools is absolutely legal for everybody. It's like browsing through governmental databases or open data from insurance companies, but way faster. So, let's check that used Mitsubishi and see whether everything is in its place.


A Summary History of Mitsubishi as an Automobile Manufacturer. We serve customers in Hagerstown, Frederick, Gaithersburg, and Owings Mills, MD

For almost 40 years, Younger Mitsubishi has been the number one dealer of Mitsubishi vehicles for Hagerstown, Frederick, Gaithersburg, Owings Mills, MD, and the Tri-State area. Just like Mitsubishi, we strive to provide our customers with quality vehicles and excellent customer service. This page provides you with a little background on Mitsubishi throughout the years and their innovative vehicles. To become part of this great brand and the Younger family, visit us at 1935 Dual Highway in Hagerstown, MD where we will put you behind the wheel of the perfect Mitsubishi for you!


1890〜1916 First Step toward Modern Management

Transforming Mitsubishi into a modern enterprise

In his early days, in 1886, Hisaya Iwasaki studied at the Wharton School of the University of Pennsylvania in the U.S. This was the period when great capitalists such as Rockefeller and Carnegie began to emerge in America to build businesses in oil, coal and steel. Hisaya experienced this big wave of American business firsthand.

His exposure to American education had a profound impact on the young Iwasaki's life and upon his return to Japan, he built himself a Western-style house designed by a British architect, Josiah Conder, and surrounded it with gardens reminiscent of the American countryside.
Today, the Tokyo Metropolitan Government owns the house and gardens, so the public may now enjoy this splendid representation of Western-style living.

Transforming Mitsubishi into a leading shipbuilder

In 1895, Nippon Yusen built one of six passenger-cargo vessels (6,000-ton class) for a European line at the Nagasaki Shipyard.
Until this time, only British companies had the shipbuilding capabilities to construct this size of commercial ship. The ship, Hitachi Maru, was the first of its size for the Nagasaki Shipyard, and the experience gained from the construction of this vessel set the stage for a growing number of orders for larger vessels, including an order for the 13,000-ton class luxury liner, TENYO MARU, and many subsequent orders for large-scale battleships.

Creating a modern corporate management system

In 1908, Hisaya introduced into Mitsubishi a management system very much like today's system of operational divisions.
The aim of this change was to give each division responsibilities and cost consciousness in order to further expand the company's businesses. Mitsubishi Goshi Kaisha consisted of the divisions of banking, shipbuilding, administration, mining, sales, and real estate, to which direct management authority was then transferred. This move was a decisive and strategic gain for the growing Mitsubishi, increasing both efficiency and profitability as a corporate enterprise.

The introduction of the division system was the first step in Mitsubishi's transformation from a one-man rule company to a truly modern corporate structure, equipped to meet the challenges of a rapidly changing and increasingly international business environment.

Major contributions even in retirement

In 1916, while Japan prospered during the war boom of WWI, Hisaya stepped down as president and entrusted the reigns of leadership to his cousin Koyata Iwasaki.
At the time Hisaya was 50 years old, and he felt he could confidently entrust the business to his successor at such a time of robust economic growth. It was a truly selfless decision, and having passed over the reins of power, Hisaya refrained from interfering in the business of Mitsubishi Goshi Kaisha.

Following his retirement, Hisaya Iwasaki worked to contribute to society, while also being involved in agriculture and cattle raising at Koiwai Farm. In 1924, he established The Toyo Bunko Foundation, which has become one of the world's leading centers for Asian studies. Currently, the facility houses about 950 thousand documents and many artifacts for public viewing.


Mitsubishi 3000GT Buying Guide

The 3000GT is starting to get a bit long in the tooth these days and many of them are well past their prime. These were (and still are) complicated cars and a bad one can quickly drain your wallet and turn your dream purchase into a nightmare. You need to be extremely thorough when inspecting any 3000GT and do not rush into a purchase.

The 3000GT is not as desirable as something like a Toyota Supra or a Mazda RX-7, so you can still find them for fairly reasonable prices. However, well maintained low mileage VR4/Twin Turbo models won’t be cheap. Let’s look at some things you need to watch out for when buying a 3000GT.

Check the Vin

It is always good practice to check the vin of a car to make sure you know what you are dealing with. Some owners will tell you that the 3000GT they are selling is one year, when in actual fact it is another. We also recommend you take note of the vin and check it up on a website like vincheckup.com, to see if you can glean any more information about the car.

To work out whether you are looking at a 3000GT or a GTO, you can look at the vin/chassis number. The chassis number on Japanese GTOs will always start with Z16A or Z15A, while 3000GTs will begin with something like JMAMNZ16A and be followed by numbers.

Condition

While many 3000GTs out there are fit for the scrap heap, there are still plenty of good examples available and we are going to show you how to find them. You should always try to inspect a 3000GT yourself or get a third party to do so for you.

Remember to try and view a car first thing in the morning when the engine is cold. Warm engines can hide a lot of problems, so don’t let the owner heat the car up for you arrive. Additionally, try to avoid viewing any 3000GT when they are wet, as water can hide problems with the bodywork or paint.

Engine

Like with all cars, preventative maintenance goes a long way on 3000GTs, so make sure the vehicle you are looking at has been regularly serviced. There have been numerous cases of owners racking up 300,000 miles or more on 3000GTs, with one owner on 3si.org reporting that he had over one million miles on there’s.

To start your inspection, open the bonnet. Make sure that it opens smoothly and doesn’t fall back down when you let go. Check to make sure that all of the fluid levels are at the correct height and that they are not under or overfilled.

It is important that the engine oil is changed regularly, especially on turbocharged 3000GT/GTOs. Oil changes should occur every 4,500 miles (7,000km) for turbocharged models and every 7,500 miles for naturally aspirated versions (12,000km). Some, more enthusiastic owners may change the oil every 2-3000 miles or so. The oil filter should be changed every other oil change, but once again, some owners like to change it more frequently (every time they do an oil change). If the owner has been lax with changing the oil and oil filter, it is a good sign that they have not cared for the car properly.

Additionally, if the 3000GT does not get much use, oil changes should occur every 6-12 months. This is because oil that sits at the bottom of the crankcase will break down in the presence of contaminates such as dirt and gas.

When it comes to deciding what oil you should run with a 3000GT, something like Mobils 1’s 0W-40 is a good choice. Other good options include 5W-40 or 10W-40 oils. Avoid running oils that are too thin as this can cause problems overtime. For oil filters, you can’t go past a good K&N filter. For those who are on a budget, something like the Purolator PureOne is not a bad option.

Remember to check the oil for any contaminates or metallic particles. If you do see any, thank the seller for their time and move onto the next car. Black oil is fine it just means it is probably time for an oil change. Additionally, if the oil smells like coolant or fuel, it could indicate a failing headgasket or bad piston rings.

Oil Pan

We recommend that you check the oil pan for any dents as this can cause spun bearings. If the oil pan is dented be cautious about purchasing the car as it may already have damage.

Timing Belt and 60K/120K Service

One of the most important things to check when inspecting any 3000GT/GTO, is whether the 60K/120K servicing has been done. It is incredibly important that this work is carried out otherwise you could be up for some expensive repairs when the timing belt breaks (for DOHC engines).

If the car is running a SOHC power unit, it is usually fine when the timing belt breaks but we always recommend that the recommended service intervals are adhered to.

The following parts should be replaced every 60,000 miles (96,000km) for DOHC engines:

  • Water Pump with gasket and oring
  • Timing Belt Hydraulic Tensioner
  • Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley
  • Timing Belt Idler Pulley
  • Timing Belt
  • Spark Plugs(6)
  • Spark Plug Wires
  • Power Steering Belt
  • Alternator & Air Conditioner belt
  • Alternator Belt (No A/C)
  • Oil
  • Oil Filter
  • Air Filter
  • Intake Plenum Gasket
  • Throttle Body Gasket

The following parts should be replaced every 60,000 miles (96,000km) for SOHC engines:

  • Water Pump and Gaskets
  • Timing Belt (or opt for the Gates belt)
  • Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley
  • Tming Tensioner Spring
  • Spark Plugs(6)
  • Spark Plug Wires
  • Power Steering Belt
  • Alternator & Air Conditioner belt
  • Alternator Belt (No A/C)
  • Oil
  • Oil Filter
  • Air Filter
  • Intake Plenum Gasket
  • Throttle Body Gasket

The cost of the 60K service will depend on where you live in the world, but expect to pay around US$350 for the SOHC parts and US$5-650 for the DOHC parts. If you don’t want to do the work yourself, you will need to add on the price of labour as well.

The 120K service is pretty much the same as the 60K service, but you should also get things like the oil pump and the valve stem seals done as well. You may also want to get the replaced/checked out as well.

Ask the owner if the 60K/120K service has been carried out and back up their claim by looking at the service history. You should also check any stickers inside the engine bay to see when parts have last been replaced.

If this work has not been carried out, you should either move onto another 3000GT or try to get a large discount and get it done immediately. For those who don’t use their 3000GTs much, this work should be carried out every five years.

Other Things to Check

If possible, try to get a look at the spark plugs. The appearance of spark plugs can tell you a lot about how an engine is running. Check out this guide for more information on spark plug analysis. For those wondering what spark plugs should be used in a 3000GT, something like BKR6EIX Iridium plugs are perfect.

Additionally, check all the wiring, brackets and clamps to make sure they are still in good condition. If the wiring is not stock and the brackets/clamps in the engine bay have been replaced it may be a sign that the engine has been swapped.

Inspect the Exhaust System

While inspecting a 3000GT, make sure you get a good look at the exhaust system of the car. Try to inspect as much of the system as you can and keep an eye out for any leaks, repairs or corrosion. Black sooty stains on the exhaust system indicate a leak. If you do need to replace the exhaust system, prepare to hand over a few coins as they do not come cheap.

3000GT/GTO Engine Swaps and Rebuilds

Be cautious of any 3000GT with a rebuilt engine. Recently-rebuilt engines may simple have been slapped together to get a quick sale.The owner/seller may be trying to offload the problem onto an unsuspecting buyer, so be careful. Some owners may even claim that the engine has been rebuilt, when in-fact only minor work (or no work) has been carried out.

If you are looking at a 3000GT with a rebuilt engine, it is incredibly important to inspect any receipts for parts and labour closely. Check with the owner to see where the work has been carried out. If it has been done by a trusted 3000GT/GTO specialist, you shouldn’t fine too many problems.

Don’t be drawn in by a GT with a recently-rebuilt engine. It is usually safer to go with a car that has more miles on a rebuilt engine (10,000 or more) rather than a freshly done one.

You may come across 3000GTs with swapped engines. While these may be cheaper, we would not recommend buying one. This is because the 3000GT is a fairly complicated car and most people/garages have absolutely no idea what they are doing when it comes to engine swaps.

Starting Up a 3000GT

Rather than starting the car yourself, ask the owner to do it for you. There are a couple of reasons for this. The first is that you can see if any smoke comes out the back upon start-up, and the second is that if the owner revs the nuts off the car, you know not to waste any more time on the vehicle.

As with any car, 3000GTs should be given time to warmup before they are revved hard. This is especially true for turbocharged models as they need time for the oil to circulate and get pumped around the turbo bearings.

You may notice some vapour content coming out of the exhaust. This is usually caused by condensation in the exhaust system and if it disappears it is okay. If you notice excessive amounts of smoke coming out of the exhaust, the car is probably not worth your time.

White smoke – Can be caused by water that has made its way into the cylinders and could be a sign that the head gasket has blown.

Blue smoke – Is usually caused by piston wear, worn piston rings and more. To check for blue smoke, get a friend to follow you as you drive the car.

Black smoke – Usually occurs when the engine is running too rich (burning too much fuel). The first things you should check is the air-filter and other intake components. Black/dark grey smoke may also mean that the turbos or the turbo seals are on their way out.

White/grey smoke upon start-up that disappears as soon as the engine is warm is fine. If you are starting the car from cold, the emissions will probably only be evident from one side of the tail pipes (typically the left-hand side). This is because the 3000GT’s exhaust system has one straight through pipe that splits into two rear silencers. The exhaust gases will follow the easiest path until the revs are increased and the pressure balances out.

Head back to the front of the car and listen out for any strange noises. The hydraulic cam followers (tappets) can be a bit noisy, especially on start up. Not all GTO/3000GTs suffer this problem, but many do. This problem should reduce or go away completely if the oil level is correct. As long as the sound isn’t really bad, the car should be fine.

Listen out for any misfiring or chugging when the car is cold. Chugging/misfiring can be caused by low compression and/or dodgy fuel injectors. Metallic whining sounds could be a sign that the oil pump or power steering pump is past its prime.

Additionally, keep an ear out for any squeals from the cam/timing belt area, which can indicate a worn bearing in either the alternator, power steering pump, idler wheel or even a worn timing belt.

Once the car has warmed up properly, the idle speed should be floating around 700rpm (+-100rpm) in park or neutral. If the idle speed is hovering above 1,000rpm it could be a sign of problems with the idle circuit or other issues.

When you start driving the car, let it warm up before giving it some revs. Once the 3000GT is up to a good operating temp, give it some throttle and check for any hesitation or bucking. If it does, it could be a sign of a number of problems. Additionally, check for any smoke when accelerating or on the overrun.

Turbo Problems

Listen to the turbochargers – are they noisy? Do you hear any rumbling or high pitched metallic noises? If the turbos are making any such sounds they are definitely on their way out, but they will probably pack it in before then.

As we wrote earlier, the main problem with turbos is that they can smoke a bit (or a lot). This is because the internal oil seal solidifies and lets oil into the system, which exits the exhaust as smoke. Turbochargers can be overhauled or it may be cheaper to replace them completely.

Inspect for oil on the insides of the Y-shaped pipe on the throttle body housing. This pipe is normally dark grey plastic and has two inlet ports which are attached to rubber intercooler hoses by hose clamps (jubilee clips). You will have to disconnect the hoses to look inside the pipe, but it is quite important to do. This area can tell you a lot about the condition of the engine/turbos.

If there is oil present in the pipe/hoses, it is a sign that the seals are worn within the turbochargers. If you look from the front of the engine, the right hand pipe runs from the rear turbo’s intercooler, while the left hand pipe runs from the front turbo’s intercooler. Inspecting the pipes will help you determine which turbocharger is worn or see if they both are.

Some owners replace the plastic Y pipe with an updated stainless steel one and the hoses with coloured ones.

Is a Compression Test Worth It on a 3000GT?

If possible, we do recommend that you get a compression test performed or do one yourself before purchasing any 3000GT/GTO. Compression tests can tell you a lot about the health of an engine and they help to indicate specific problems. Here is a complete guide to performing a compression test on a DOHC 3000GT.

While performing a compression test is a good way to work out whether there are any problems with the engine, some owners will be reluctant to let you take their car’s engine to pieces (understandably so).

Tools Needed for a Compression Test

  • 8mm socket w/ wrench
  • Compression tester kit (This one from OTC comes highly recommended)

Stock compression pressures should be as follows:

NA (non turbo) engine (10:1) – 185psi with a lower limit of 139psi

Turbocharged engine (8:1) – 156psi with a lower limit of 115psi

Additionally, in both engines, there should not be more than a 14psi difference between the highest and lowest cylinder readings. Note: all of these readings should be taken with a warm engine.

A low reading is usually a good indicator of an existing problem with the engine. If you do encounter a 3000GT with low compression, it may be a good idea to move onto another one.

Checking The Gauges

There are three gauges in the centre of the dashboard – oil pressure, turbo boost and temperature. During a test drive, keep an eye on these gauges. Whilst driving, the oil pressure gauge should be hovering around the halfway mark and not any lower when the engine is underload.

The turbo boost gauge won’t tell you too much, but if it rises from just above zero to max quickly then you should be cautious. It may simply be a sticky wastegate, a split hose or something much worse. If you are looking at an NA model, you obviously won’t have to worry about this.

The temperature gauge should be sitting at around the half way point. When the engine is sitting at the correct temperature, give it some revs and listen out for any strange noises from the engine.

Transmission

Depending on the year and model, 3000GTs/GTOs were fitted with either a five-speed manual, a six-speed manual or a four-speed automatic transmission. The six-speed manual transmission was fitted to later model GTs, but you may come across some earlier models that have had them fitted.

Manual 3000GT/GTOs

Both the five and the six-speed manual transmissions are fairly robust and will be more than strong enough to cope with the demands of everyday driving. However, the main area of weakness on these transmissions is the output shaft. It is not uncommon for these to break or become worn and they are expensive to replace.

If the output shaft on a 3000GT has worn splines, it should be replaced to prevent stripping the splines and the consequential failure of the central differential viscous coupling unit (VCU). Ask the owner if the shaft has ever been replaced and with what as there are a number of aftermarket output shafts that are available. There are three main options when it comes to replacing the output shaft:

  • Replace with the stock/OEM shaft
  • Upgrade to a 24-spline xfer case
  • Upgrade to a 300M shaft

For cars that are running extra power or are driven hard for extended periods of time, it is highly recommended that a 300M shaft be installed.

If the 3000GT you are looking at does have a broken output shaft you will probably find that it moves under power, but will slip with too much throttle. This is because torque can no longer be sent to the rear wheels and the VCU will send the power to the front wheels. If you do experience this, stop driving immediately and don’t purchase the car.

Gear changes should be smooth while shifting, however, some 3000GTs will have synchro wear. Shift through the gears at both low and high rpms, making sure you listen out for any strange noises such as grinding and whining.

Clutch

Check the engagement of the clutch. If it is stock or close to stock, the clutch should engage smoothly about 8-10cm (3-4 inches) from the floor. To check for engagement, put the vehicle in gear on a flat surface and gradually let the clutch out

The next thing to check is if the clutch is dragging. Once again, put the car in gear on a level surface with the clutch pressed to the floor. Rev the car hard (make sure it is warm before you do this) and see if it moves. If the vehicle does move, the clutch isn’t fully disengaging when you shift and parts will wear prematurely.

Following this, check to see if the clutch is slipping. While driving the vehicle at a steady speed, change into a gear that is too high for the speed you are going. Then, plant your foot on the throttle pedal and see if the revs jump. If the RPM jumps but you don’t accelerate then the clutch is probably slipping.

In addition to the above, remember to check the clutch fluid level and see if it has ever been replaced. Both DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids should work fine for the 3000GT’s clutch.

Automatic 3000GT/GTO

The first thing you should check on automatic 3000GTs is the fluid level. Checking the fluid level is incredibly important and if it is low/high it indicates that the vehicle has not been looked after properly. Automatic transmissions do not respond well to incorrect fluid levels and you should probably walk away if you find a 3000GT with the problem.

Check the fluid level when the gearbox is hot (after a test drive) and make sure that the car is on a level surface. The next thing to do is take the gear lever through all the gears while the engine is running. Listen out for any major clunking sounds and don’t forget to put your foot on the brake!

Following this, Inspect the transmission dipstick (while the car is in neutral). The level should be setting at the top of the HOT mark. Additionally, the fluid should be golden in colour and if it is any darker, you may want to look for another 3000GT. Red transmission fluid is sometimes used, so don’t worry if you see that.

While driving the vehicle, listen out for any clunks or knocks from the automatic transmission. Poor gear selection is a sign that the automatic transmission will need some work soon. Additionally, check that the gearbox kicks down during various applications of throttle.

The last thing to check with automatic transmissions on the 3000GT is if the overdrive works. When the overdrive is switched off the car will not go into top gear, but will hold third gear. If you are driving at more than 40mph (64km/h) and switch the overdrive off, the gearbox should shift into a lower gear. If it doesn’t, there are problems with the transmission.

You may come across 3000GTs/GTOs fitted with extra oil coolers for the automatic transmission. This is good as excess heat will do damage to automatic gearboxes.

Body and Exterior

Thankfully, corrosion is not a major problem on these cars and any rust is probably the result of an accident or minor damage. However, keep an eye out for it, especially if the car has lived in a country that salts their roads, or has lived by the sea.

Crash Damage and Other Repair Work

The main problem you will find with 3000GT/GTO’s body is accident damage. Accident damage can make or break a vehicle so keep an eye out for it. Many owners/sellers will lie about accident damage, so don’t take their word for it. If they do mention that the car has been in an accident, assume the worst and hope for the best. Here are some things you should watch out for:

  • Check for any misaligned panels or uneven panel gaps. Make sure the bonnet aligns correctly and there is an equal gap running down both sides.
  • Inspect the doors – do they open and close properly? Do they drop when you open them? If the doors drop or they don’t open/close properly you have problems.
  • If the 3000GT you are looking at is fitted with pop up headlights, make sure they work correctly. Do they rise and retract properly? If they foul on the body it could be a sign of accident damage.
  • Look for any inconsistencies in the paint. Discolouration or waving in the paint could be a sign that the car has been resprayed.
  • If the bonnet/hood looks like it is popped when it is not, it usually indicates that the vehicle has been in an accident. Depending on how serious this problem is it can be fixed, but is usually a sign of a careless owner.
  • Inspect the underside of the car for any accident damage. Make sure everything is straight and look for any parts that may have been replaced. Broken parts and/or bent metal are usually a sign of accident damage.
  • Check that the tailgate/boot opens properly and the panel gap is even.
  • Make sure that the bonnet/hood and the tailgate struts work as intended.
  • Check for any paint fade or fading plastic parts.
  • If you are looking at a 3000GT Spyder, make sure the retractable roof works as intended.

While accident damage is a serious problem, you should not automatically exclude a car from consideration because of it. Minor damage is usually fine as long as it has been repaired correctly and not bodged. If the 3000GT you are looking at has been in a major accident, we recommend that you move onto another one. Remember to use any repair work/accident damage as a bargaining point.

Signs That a 3000GT has been Stored Outside

Storing a car outside can lead to a number of problems such as premature paint fade. Here are a few signs that a 3000GT has been stored outside.

  • Hard rubber window seals
  • Excess water in the engine bay or cabin
  • Faded paint
  • Heavily discoloured badges
  • Cracking on the plastic parts
  • Obvious rust or corrosion
Other Bodywork Problems on the Mitsubishi 3000GT/GTO

Unless the 3000GT you are looking at has been stored in a garage its entire life, there are bound to be a few scratches, dings and other paintwork issues. Use these problems to try and drive down the price of the vehicle.

Additionally, you may find the odd leak on the car, especially where the door glass and roof joins. You may also find some leaking around the sunroof on models that have those. Spyder models or those with soft-top conversions can also leak where the roof meets the windows. Any leaks should be fixed as soon as possible.

We recommend that you take a good look in the wheelwells/mud guards for “excessive road material”. Too much material from the ground/road could be an indication of burnouts.

Active Aero

For 3000GTs with active aerodynamics there will be a switch in the centre console that is located just forward of the gear shifter. Turn the ignition one click and press the Aero button, the rear spoiler should flip up. Get out the car and inspect the front spoiler to make sure it has dropped evenly. Turn off the active aero to make sure the rear spoiler and the front spoiler return to their original positions. While driving the car, check to make sure the active aero activates when in auto mode (at around 50mph or 80km/h). When your speed reduces to 30mph (50km/h) or less, the spoilers should retract.

Brakes and Suspension
Brake System

Get down and inspect the brake discs, making sure to check for even wear. If the discs are pitted, scored or have grooves in them you’ve got trouble. Additionally, try to check how much life is left in the pads as you can use this as a bargaining point.

The rear brake covers can hide wear on the inner faces of the rear discs and the discs can also become extremely corroded. Replacing the rear discs is more expensive than the front as they house the handbrake system and take more time to fit.

When test driving a 3000GT, make sure you abuse the brakes heavily (in a safe place of course) and see if the car pulls to one side. If it does it may be a sign of a sticking/seized caliper or other problems. If the car shimmies under braking, plan on replacing the discs.

Suspension and Steering

While inspecting the brakes and underside of the car, make sure you take a good look at the suspension components. Does everything look good? Or are there worn components and broken parts? Is it stock or modified?

When driving a 3000GT, make sure you check that the car drives straight without you correcting the wheel. If it does not, it could be an alignment issue or the vehicle may have been in an accident. Note: roads slanted to one side to help water drainage may pull the vehicle to one side slightly, giving the impression that the wheel alignment is out. If you do suspect that the wheel alignment is out, ask the owner when the alignment was last done (check any receipts for work as well).

A 3000GT that pulls to one side on even road surfaces could have worn strut mounts/bushings. These are roughly US$40 to replace and wear quite quickly.

If the ride is overly bouncy or rough it may be a sign that the struts are worn out. These will wear out overtime, so expect to see this problem on cars with a lot of mileage. At roughly US$200 each, these struts are not cheap so try to get a discount on any 3000GT with this problem.

The next thing to check is the condition of the CV joints. Drive in a figure 8 and keep an ear out for any strange noises from the CV joints. If you can, jack the car up and wiggle the wheels around, checking for play.

Checking the ECS system

It is important to check the ECS (electronically controlled suspension) system on cars that have it. If the light flashes between sport and tour, a sensor wire may be broken. These wires are on top of the struts under a black piece of plastic and are simple to repair.

If it is not a wire, then there may be a number of other problems from issues with the ECS system to problems with the ECS computer, or even a worn shock absorber.

You may encounter a 3000GT where the ECS light on the dash doesn’t work at all. This may simply be down to a blown bulb, but it is more likely to be caused by some sort of fault. When there is a fault with the system, the ECS light will flash between sport and tour modes. Some devious sellers/owners will remove the bulb so that any potential buyers are not aware of the fault.

Alternatively, owners will “unplug” the ECS unit altogether, which shuts the system down and results in no Sport/Tour lights at all. If you are looking at a 3000GT with ECS and there are no lights at all – then the system has probably been disabled.

A common failure point on the OEM ECS system is the ECS controller itself. It is quite common for the capacitors to fail and then the controller will stop working completely. Replacing the OEM ECS controller is quite difficult now as Mitsubishi has stopped making them. Additionally, the front ECS struts are no longer available in the United States (Some Canadian dealers may still have them).

Another reason why the ECS light may not function is because the suspension has been replaced with an aftermarket setup. If aftermarket suspension has been fitted, make sure it is from a good brand such as HKS.

OEM vs Techworks ECS

The table below summarises the difference between the sport/tour lights for OEM and Techworks systems. Thanks to Techworks and duke3k of 3si.org for providing this useful information (duke3k also helped out with some of the ECS information above).

Strut State

OEM ECS Sport/Tour Light

Techworks ECS Sport/Tour Light

Techworks ECS Individual strut LED X4

Fault condition: Strut not accepting command to change To next setting

Flash together every 30 seconds

Flash together every 30 seconds

Fault condition: Strut wires possibly Broken

Alternatively flash every 30 seconds

Fault condition: Any other sensor Fault condition (steering wheel sensor, brake sensor, TPS sensor)

Not applicable – Techworks uses Built in Accelerometer

Manual struts set to hard

Manual struts set to Medium

Manual struts set to soft

Auto struts set to hard

Auto struts set to medium

Auto struts set to soft

Check the Steering Racks

The next thing to check is the steering racks on both the front and the rear of the car. If they are leaking they will need some attention, which will be about US$250-300 plus labour for the removal and refitting of them. Remember to check for any signs of power steering fluid around the steering rack gaitors or that they are not ballooning due to being full of power steering fluid.

Wheels and Tyres

A good portion of 3000GTs/GTOs you find for sale will probably have aftermarket wheels fitted. Check with the owner to see if they have the originals, and if they don’t, try to get the price down a little bit. If the wheels have locking lug nuts, make sure the owner has the key for them.

While inspecting the suspension and brake components, check the tyres – do they have any tread on them? Are they wearing evenly? Are they from a good brand? Uneven tyre wear is a sign that the wheel alignment is out.

If the 3000GT you are looking at is wearing a premium set of tyres it shows that the owner probably cars about the car.

Interior and Electronics

You shouldn’t find too many problems on the inside of the car but expect to see some wear, especially on higher mileage models. Neither the leather or cloth trims fitted to the 3000GT/GTO have outstanding wear qualities. If you have to replace the interior trim, expect to hand over some serious coin.

If the steering wheel, gear shifter and other trim parts show excessive amounts of wear for the mileage of the car, it may be a sign that the odometer has been wound back.

Check that all the buttons and switches work correctly – mirrors, windows, locks, air conditioning, etc. When you start the car up, do the lights on the dash light up? If dash lights such as the ABS, SRS, and check engine light don’t appear when the key is turned in the ignition, it may be a sign that they have been unplugged to hide the fact that something is wrong.

Make sure you inspect any aftermarket devices installed in the vehicle closely. Is the wiring and workmanship of a high standard? Or has the device been thrown in and not connected well? If devices and components have not been installed correctly it is a sign that the owner may not have cared for the vehicle.

If any parts such as the steering wheel, seats or shifter have been replaced, ask the owner if they have the originals on hand.

The 3000GT/GTO is getting on a bit now and the electronics in them aren’t getting any younger. Capacitors in the ECU system will eventually break down, so see if they have been replaced. The Engine Control Unit and Transmission Control Unit (autos only) can fail and are quite expensive to replace.

Buying a Modified 3000GT/GTO

There is nothing wrong with a modified 3000GT, but make sure you check that any work has been carried out correctly. Check to see if the modifications are legal and haven’t ruined the characteristics of the vehicle. Here’s a list of some common modifications you may find on a 3000GT:

  • Wheels
  • Exhaust system (aftermarket options are often cheaper than the original)
  • Dump valves/blow off valves (original can leak and is often replaced by an aftermarket option)
  • Radio/Stereo
  • Air filter upgrade from companies such as K&N or HKS
  • Suspension
  • Boost controller to increase power
  • Added gauges around the dash area as the original boost gauge isn’t the best

We would advise caution when it comes to purchasing a 3000GT that has been used as a track car or has been modified by multiple owners.

Summary of Buying a Mitsubishi 3000GT/GTO

Finding a good 3000GT is becoming more and more difficult, but they are out there. These are complicated cars and there is a lot that can go wrong on them. Many 3000GTs have been maintained poorly or have had poor modifications fitted to them. Still, if you buy a good 3000GT and look after it well they will go on for a long time.

Remember to take your time inspecting any 3000GT and don’t rush into a purchase. If anything seems wrong, it probably is. Don’t take the owners word for it and always push for a discount.


Mitsubishi Ki-18

Mitsubishi Ki-18 ( 三菱 キ18 , Ki-jyuhachi ? ) là một mẫu thử tiêm kích không thành công của Mitsubishi trong thập niên 1930.

Ki-18
Mitsubishi Ki-18
Kiểu Mẫu thử máy bay tiêm kích
Nhà chế tạo Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Ltd
Chuyến bay đầu Tháng 8, 1935
Sử dụng chính Không quân Lục quân Đế quốc Nhật Bản
Số lượng sản xuất 1


Mitsubishi Ki-7 - History

History of Mitsubishi Electric

History of
Mitsubishi Electric

The history of Mitsubishi Electric is the history of the development of modern Japan. The company was founded in 1921, when Mitsubishi Shipbuilding Co. (now Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Ltd.) spun off a factory in Kobe, Japan that made electric motors for ocean-going vessels into a new company called Mitsubishi Electric Corporation.

Mitsubishi Electric’s first major commercial product was an electric fan, which soon became a national bestseller.

The first Mitsubishi Electric television, launched in 1953, spawned an ongoing tradition of excellence in audio and visual systems.

Debut of Diamond Vision&trade display at Dodger Stadium in the United States

Development of the optical neurochip, a key device for realising an optical neurocomputer

Commercial release of the world’s first car navigation system incorporating GPS

Completion of Subaru telescope for the National Astronomical Observatory of Japan facility on the summit of Mauna Kea, Hawaii

Adoption of MISTY® technology as encryption standard for 3rd generation mobile phones

Successful docking of “KOUNOTORI” (HTV) unmanned supply vehicle with International Space Station

Always seeking
the cutting edge

GE-PON (Gigabit Ethernet Passive Optical Network) systems win “top share” status in Japan

Completion of “Hayabusa” Series E5, holder of the Japanese speed record for a train


Turns out Mitsubishi's history is far more interesting than we thought

Former Autoblog editor-in-chief Mike Austin was kind enough to drop this little nugget onto Twitter yesterday: the history of Mitsubishi timeline on the company's press website. Basically, it's a virtual museum, spanning from the 1917 Mitsubishi Model A to the 2008 Galant Fortis Sportback. Frankly, it's not that surprising that they didn't go much further beyond that, but still, the timeline provides both a fun trip down memory lane and an introduction to fun and/or wacky JDM models we never got.

Besides showing photos, there's actually a sizable amount of info for each, which has quite clearly and often delightfully been translated from Japanese.

Take the New Minica Toppo that "adopted a 1:2 door configuration with a single door on the driver's side and two doors on the passenger side (think a Hyundai Veloster), as well as a 'Super High Roof' that added 70 mm to the height of the standard roof . Addressing the desire to drive something a little different, the lineup was soon joined by a number of variants with personalities designed to bring more fun to the class and including the recreation specification Carabosse, the young mother and baby-oriented Marble, and the Town Bee with its round frog-eye headlamps projecting just forward of the leading edge of the engine hood." Also, check out those diagonal door handles.

There are more than just JDM kei car oddities, however. There's the Mitsubishi FTO, which you may remember from Gran Turismo and other racing video games from back in the day. It was "a car that delivered fun-to-drive qualities in abundance (and) was selected 1994-1995 Japan Car of the Year." If you didn't know, it was called the FTO because it slotted below the Mitsubishi GTO, the car you know as the 3000GT. I didn't know that before. Thanks, timeline!

There's also the off-roady JDM Delica vans that are now all over the Pacific Northwest having surpassed the 25-year import embargo. The 1994 Delica Space Gear (above left) was notable in that it moved the engine under the hood rather than beneath the front seats where it was previously (above right with the Delica Star Wagon), but according to the timeline "The Gear variant name was added in the belief that customers would become attached to it as a familiar 'piece of gear' for leisure and everyday purposes." Judging by the ones I see around here in Portland, mission accomplished. "Suspension was by double wishbone at the front and a 5-link with coil spring arrangement at the rear. The 4WD model used the Super Select 4WD driveline popular on the Pajero and with ample obstacle clearance angles and ride height delivered outstanding off-road performance."

There are also just some handsome regular cars we never got, including the Emeraude, a name adapted from the French word for emerald. Fitting, as the car above it was the Diamante (we DID get that two generations, in fact). It's quite the handsome thing. There's a bit of early 1990s Mazda here, second-gen Integra there . It had a 2.0-liter V6, which is definitely the smallest displacement V6 I've ever seen.

Finally, I got to take a trip down memory lane. At some point in the late '80s, my family took a trip to Florida and rented a car. Eagerly awaiting to find out what neat new car we'd be getting, my father reported that it was a Mitsubishi Mirage. We didn't have Mitsubishis in Canada, nor did I own any made by Matchbox or Majorette, so my dad might as well have said we were getting a Gerflounden Marflockel. I didn't believe him. I thought he was joking. Any way, judging by the timeline, the car we had belonged to the mid-80s generation introduced for 1983. In Japan, it was called the Lancer Fiore (shown above). It was also very ugly, which I also remember.

Things would soon change, however, as the timeline says "In January 1988, the 4-door sedan range underwent a full model change to a 'high-quality sedan for the style-conscious adult' theme (no word on five-year-old Canadian boys). This series also used personality distinguishing variant names include Vie, Fabio and Cyborg."

And now I want a Mitsubishi Mirage Cyborg. Actually, I definitely don't, but I'm glad it existed. Just as I'm glad this timeline exists. Thanks for the distraction, Mitsubishi.


Mitsubishi and Honda

The Mitsubishi Pajero was becoming hugely popular in Japan through the 1990s and Mitsubishi were seeing huge success with the Diamante and the Pajero.

It was rumoured in the years of 1992 and 1993 that Mitsubishi were planning a hostile takeover of Honda. Honda had been caught off guard with the rise of the SUV market and had lost focus after the illness and death of their founder. However, Honda weren’t going to let a hostile takeover happen and took drastic steps to ensure that this did not happen.

During the 1990s, Mitsubishi saw their domestic share rise to 11.6%. This was mainly down to the increase in the SUV market in Japan, which many Japanese car manufacturers dismissed and didn’t think would take off in their own country.

List of site sources >>>


Watch the video: MITSUBISHI # 6006106 (January 2022).